Retinol is the skincare ingredient everyone talks about. It is also the one people most often give up on. Flaking, stinging, redness and the "retinol uglies" send plenty of people back to square one within weeks.
That is exactly why retinol alternatives have become one of the fastest-growing categories in UK skincare. But do they actually work, or are they just retinol-lite marketing? Here is what the evidence says, ingredient by ingredient, and how to choose the right option for your skin.
A retinol alternative is an ingredient that offers retinol-like benefits (smoother-looking texture, softer-looking fine lines and a fresher complexion) without being a retinoid. The best-studied is bakuchiol: a randomised, double-blind study in the British Journal of Dermatology found it performed similarly to retinol for wrinkles and pigmentation, with less scaling and stinging. Other options include Bidens pilosa, peptides and niacinamide. They tend to suit sensitive skin and people who couldn't get on with retinol.
- Retinol works, but it commonly causes irritation, and the NHS says topical retinoids aren’t suitable in pregnancy.
- Bakuchiol has the strongest clinical evidence among plant-based alternatives.
- Bidens pilosa is a plant extract used for renewal-style care; its independent research base is still developing.
- Peptides and niacinamide are gentle supporting ingredients that complement any renewal routine.
- Retinol alternatives are usually gentler, but you still need daily SPF and a patch test.
Why look for a retinol alternative?
Let's be clear: retinol is effective. Consultant dermatologist Dr Adil Sheraz, writing for the British Skin Foundation, notes that over-the-counter retinol works (one study showed a 44% improvement in crow's feet fine lines), although less powerfully than prescription retinoids. The problem is tolerance.
| Retinol challenge | What UK guidance says |
|---|---|
| Irritation | The NHS lists mild irritation and stinging as the most common side effects of topical retinoids. |
| Sun sensitivity | The NHS advises applying retinoids sparingly and avoiding excessive exposure to sunlight and UV. |
| Pregnancy | The NHS states that topical retinoids are not suitable for use during pregnancy. |
| Mixing | The British Skin Foundation warns that retinol with vitamin C is likely to cause irritation and redness. |
If any of those sound familiar, a gentler alternative could be the difference between a routine you abandon and one you stick with. In skincare, consistency usually beats intensity.
The main retinol alternatives compared
| Ingredient | What it is | Evidence | Gentleness | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bakuchiol | A plant compound from the babchi plant | Strongest of the plant options (randomised trial) | High | Fine lines and uneven tone in sensitive skin |
| Bidens pilosa extract | A plant extract used for renewal-style care | Mostly ingredient-supplier and lab data so far | High | Smoother-looking texture, dullness, gentle renewal |
| Peptides | Amino-acid chains that signal renewal | Good for specific peptides | Very high | Plumper, firmer-looking skin; mature skin |
| Niacinamide | Vitamin B3 | Solid evidence for tone and texture | Very high | Uneven tone, dullness, balance |
| Retinol (for comparison) | A vitamin A derivative (retinoid) | Very strong | Low to moderate | Experienced users |
Bakuchiol vs retinol: what does the research say?
The best-known study, a prospective, randomised, double-blind trial published in the British Journal of Dermatology (Dhaliwal et al., 2019), compared 0.5% bakuchiol applied twice daily with 0.5% retinol applied once daily over 12 weeks. Both groups saw significant reductions in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between them. The retinol group reported more facial scaling and stinging.
It was a small study, and more research is welcome. But it is the main reason dermatologists now take plant-based alternatives seriously rather than dismissing them as a fad.
What is Bidens pilosa and how does it compare?
Bidens pilosa is a flowering plant used in traditional botanical preparations. In cosmetics, standardised extracts are used as a "phyto-retinol": a plant ingredient chosen to support smoother-looking skin and a more refined-looking texture, without the irritation profile associated with retinoids.
To be transparent: Bidens pilosa does not yet have independent clinical trials on the scale of the bakuchiol study above. Most of its data comes from ingredient manufacturers and laboratory work. Think of it as a gentle renewal step for texture, glow and comfort, rather than a like-for-like retinol replacement.
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Who should choose a retinol alternative?
| You… | Retinol alternative? | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Have sensitive or easily irritated skin | ✅ Great fit | Lower irritation profile than retinoids |
| Tried retinol and gave up | ✅ Great fit | Get renewal-style care you can use consistently |
| Are new to active skincare | ✅ Great fit | A gentle first step towards smoother-looking skin |
| Want to use vitamin C in the same routine | ✅ Easier | Simpler to combine. Still best kept to morning (vitamin C) and night (renewal). |
| Are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding | ⚠️ Ask first | Retinoids aren’t suitable in pregnancy. Check any new active with your GP, midwife or pharmacist. |
| Want the fastest, strongest results and tolerate retinol well | Retinol may suit you | Retinoids still have the deepest evidence base |
The NHS is clear that topical retinoids are not suitable during pregnancy. Plant-based alternatives are often marketed as pregnancy-friendly, but always check any new skincare active with your GP, midwife or pharmacist first.
How to use a retinol alternative
- Patch test for 24–48 hours on a small area.
- Cleanse in the evening and pat skin dry.
- Apply a few drops to the face and neck, avoiding the eyes.
- Layer a peptide serum next if you like. Our guide to peptides explains why the two work well together.
- Moisturise, for example with Balance Veil Niacinamide Moisturiser Gel.
- Next morning, wear SPF. The NHS recommends at least SPF30 with 4-star UVA. Here is why SPF still matters in winter when you use actives.
| Routine | Morning | Evening |
|---|---|---|
| Gentle renewal | Cleanse → Vitamin C → Balance Veil → SPF30 | Cleanse → Renew Veil → Balance Veil |
| Complete Smooth Night | Same as above | Cleanse → Renew Veil → Smooth Veil → Balance Veil |
Even gentle formulas are best introduced gradually. Try every other evening for two weeks, then increase if your skin feels comfortable. The full routine is in our night skincare routine guide, and if you also use vitamin C, see how to use vitamin C serum.
Renew Veil is not traditional retinol and is not fragrance-free. It contains parfum and natural essential-oil components (geraniol, citronellol, linalool and citral). It is not a sunscreen. If you use it in the morning, always finish with SPF.
Calming tools for renewal routines
Renewal routines feel best when the rest of your routine is calm and comforting. These tools pair well:
Seven light colours for a relaxing evening ritual. Many people pair red light with a gentle renewal routine.
A cooling roll in the morning helps skin feel refreshed and look less puffy.
Use on a low setting for a thorough but gentle cleanse. Skip it on any nights skin feels sensitive.
Adds moisture to dry, centrally heated air, so skin feels more comfortable overnight.
See the full range of face skincare devices. All tools come with a 14-day trial.
Not sure which product fits your goal? Our BeautyEssence product guide matches each skin goal to the product we recommend, with live prices.
Related beauty-tool guide: if you're considering an LED mask for your evening routine, read Do LED Face Masks Work? for an honest look at what to expect.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best alternative to retinol?
Bakuchiol has the strongest clinical evidence among plant-based alternatives. Peptides and niacinamide are excellent gentle supporting ingredients, and Bidens pilosa is a popular plant extract for renewal-style care. The best option is the one your skin tolerates well enough to use consistently.
Do retinol alternatives actually work?
Some do. A randomised, double-blind study in the British Journal of Dermatology found 0.5% bakuchiol performed similarly to 0.5% retinol for wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks, with less irritation. Evidence varies between ingredients.
Is a retinol alternative good for sensitive skin?
Generally, yes. Retinol alternatives are usually gentler than retinoids. Patch test first, especially if the formula contains fragrance or essential oils.
Can I use a retinol alternative while pregnant?
The NHS says topical retinoids are not suitable during pregnancy. Plant-based alternatives are often used instead, but check any new active ingredient with your GP, midwife or pharmacist first.
Can I use a retinol alternative with vitamin C?
Yes. Most people use vitamin C in the morning and their retinol alternative at night, which keeps the routine simple and comfortable.
Do I need SPF with a retinol alternative?
Yes. Daily SPF protects the results of any renewal routine, and it is essential if you use renewal products in the morning.
Try gentle renewal tonight
Renew Veil brings 2% Bidens pilosa, hyaluronic acid and nourishing botanicals together in one lightweight serum. Pair it with Smooth Veil and Balance Veil and save 15%.
Shop Renew VeilExplore the full Face Care collection or browse more guides in the Beauty Care Journal.
Sources and further reading
- NHS: Acne treatment (topical retinoids, pregnancy and sun exposure)
- British Skin Foundation: Cosmeceuticals, do they work? (Dr Adil Sheraz)
- British Skin Foundation: Which skincare you shouldn’t mix and why
- Dhaliwal S et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 2019
- NHS: Sunscreen and sun safety
This guide is for general skincare information and is not medical advice. Patch test new products, follow the directions on each product page and speak to your GP, pharmacist or a dermatologist about any skin condition, persistent irritation or changes to moles.
